![]() Well things didnt get any better, the owner was still having all sorts of issues with the carbs at his wits end when he found about me, and brought them to me. Bi forums idle timer install#I was told by the owner, on his first attempt to install them, the fornt carbs had been spitting fuel out the overflow/vent tube, so they were sent back to rebuilder, and rebuilder found there was float that was taking on fuel, it was replaced with good used flaot and returned to the owner. Recently I was brought a set of HIF4 carbs from a local guy, who didnt know about me until just recently, so he had sent his carbs out for rebuild to well known SU rebuilder, with a clever website name. The bi metal temp compensating arm, does a couple of things, it is the arm attached to the mixture adjusting screw that let you move the jet up and down for fuel mixture, but it also with it's bi metal strip changes the fuel mixture as the atsmophere around it gets warmer, as engine bay temp rise, the bit metal strip will bend making the mixture a bit richer, because normally when temp rise, the carb goes leaner, the bi metal strip is supposed to compensate for this condition. Sometime folks with take the car out, get it up to temps, then when the idle start rising, adjust it back, sometimes even lean the mixture, then the car runs fine, then next time they go to crank it, the idle is so low the car will not idle, and the idle has to be set higher for a normal idle, go drive the car and the process seems to repeat itself all over again. With HIF4 carbs it is normally the same complaint as stated here, car cranks fine, runs fine for awhile until operating temps have been achieved, then all goes to hell in handbasket, erratic idle, normally a high idle, and the car is noticably running rich. I always say, everything comes in streaks, after not seeing a HIF4 carb for rebuild in a good year, now I seem to either fixing, rebuilding, or talking to folks about HIF4 carbs on nearly a daily basis.
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